Cars Mazda Cars Mitsubishi Cars Toyota Cars Chevrolet Cars AvtoVAZ Cars Kia Cars Nissan
English Русский
Български
Беларускі
Український
Српски
Hrvatski
Română
Polski
Slovenský
Magyar
| Articles | Contacts | Sitemap |   
BMWman.ru
 
 
 
 
 
 

3 series   5 series   7 series   BMW X3   BMW X5   BMW X6

E39 (1995-2003) E34 (1988-1996) E28 (1981-1988) E12 (1972-1981)
  • Home
  • BMW 5 Series
  • E28
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • General information about troubleshooting electrical circuits

General information about troubleshooting electrical circuits (BMW 5 Series E28)

            0

Table of contents: Checking the voltage in the circuit ↓ Finding the location of a short…↓ Grounding check ↓ Checking the conductivity of the…↓ Finding an open circuit ↓
A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, switches, relays, motors, fuses, fuse links, or circuit breakers connected to that component, and the wiring and connectors that link the component to the battery and chassis. To help you troubleshoot an electrical circuit, there are Basic electrical circuit diagrams.

Before attempting to repair any faulty electrical circuit, first study the wiring diagram to fully understand what it consists of. For example, you can sometimes narrow down the scope of a fault by checking the operation of other components associated with the circuit. If several components or circuits have failed at once, the problem may be in the fuses or grounding, as many circuits often share a single fuse and ground connection.

Electrical circuit faults usually result from simple causes such as loose or corroded contacts, a blown fuse, a melted fuse link or a faulty relay. Therefore, before you start looking for damage, visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and contacts in the faulty circuit.

The basic tools needed to troubleshoot an electrical circuit include a tester, a high-impedance digital voltmeter, a continuity tester, and jumper cables with a built-in circuit breaker that is used to bypass the circuit components. Before attempting to troubleshoot with test tools, consult the wiring diagram to determine where to connect them.

Checking the voltage in the circuit



A voltage test is performed when a circuit is not functioning properly. Connect one end of a circuit tester to the negative battery terminal or to a good ground.



Connect the other end to one of the terminals of the circuit being tested, preferably the one closest to the battery or fuse. If the tester light comes on, there is voltage in the circuit, which in turn means that the section of the circuit between the terminal and the battery is OK. Continue testing the remaining sections of the circuit in the same way.

When you reach the area where there is no voltage, you will find the fault location. Most often, the problem is a bad connection.

Remember that some circuits only have voltage when the ignition is on.


Finding a fault in a circuit is a fairly simple matter if you remember that any electrical circuit is electricity flowing from the battery through wires, switches, relays, fuses and fuse links to various components of the electrical circuit (light bulbs, motors, etc.) and to the ground, from which it passes back to the battery. And any fault in the circuit is a disruption in the flow of electricity from or to the battery.

Finding the location of a short circuit



One method of finding a short circuit in a circuit is to disconnect the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter in its place. There should be no voltage in the circuit. Move the wiring from side to side, watching the test light. If the light comes on, then there is a short to ground in that area, probably because the insulation has worn through somewhere. Each component in the circuit is checked in the same way, right down to the switch.

Grounding check



Perform a ground test to check if a circuit component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one end of a continuity tester to a good earth ground. Connect the other end to the wire or connector of the ground you are testing. If the light comes on, the ground is correct. If it does not come on, the ground is incorrect. In this case, disconnect the connector and thoroughly clean all connecting parts. When reconnecting the connector, use serrated washers if possible and tighten all bolts and other fasteners securely.



If your car radio is equipped with an anti-theft system, make sure you have entered the correct code before disconnecting the battery cable. Refer to Section Anti-theft audio system and instrument cluster language before disconnecting the wire.


If after connecting the wire, the inscriptions on your instrument panel appear in a language other than the one you need, refer to Section Anti-theft audio system and instrument cluster language, which describes the procedure for installing the required language.


Checking the conductivity of the circuit



A continuity test is used to determine if the circuit has any breaks - whether it conducts current well. A continuity tester is used to check, and the current in the circuit is turned off. Attach the connecting wires to both ends of the circuit, and if the test light comes on, then the circuit conducts current well. If the light does not come on, then there is a break somewhere in the circuit. The same procedure is used to check a switch, only the continuity tester is connected to the switch terminals. When the switch is on, the light should come on.

Finding an open circuit



Visually locating a possible open circuit is often difficult because oxidation or displacement of contacts is hidden by connectors. Open circuits are often caused by oxidation or loose contacts. Simply wiggling a connector contact on the sensing element or in the wiring can restore an open circuit, at least temporarily. Disconnect the connector and spray it with water from an aerosol can. On simple connectors, you can sometimes gently bend the connector contacts inward to improve contact - but do not get carried away with this, or you may damage the connector.

This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
Article verified: Zhuravleva Isolda

Share information:
Previous articles
БМВ E28: Equipment and devices
Next articles

General information about the on-board electrical system
Removal and installation the battery
Checking the condition and replacing the battery wires
General information about fuses
General information about relays
Checking and replacing turn signal and hazard warning flashers


Similar articles on other types of BMW cars:
Troubleshooting Electrical Circuits — General Information BMW 3 Series E46 (1998-2006, petrol)
Diagnostics of faults of on-board electrical equipment — general… BMW 3 Series E46 (1998-2006)
Troubleshooting — General Information and Preliminary Checks BMW 7 Series E38 (1994-2001)
Electrical equipment. General information BMW 7 Series E32 (1986-1994)
Tachometer — general information BMW X3 E83 (2003-2010)
General information about on-board electrical equipment BMW X5 E53 (1999-2006)
Link in different formats to this page


Visitor comments

No comments yet


How much 19 + 21 =

       



BMW E39 (1995-2003) 
  • General information
  • Governing bodies
  • Manual
  • Maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Lubrication system
  • Cooling system
  • Ignition system
  • Supply system
  • Injection system (gasoline)
  • Injection system (diesel)
  • Exhaust system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Front axle
  • Rear axle
  • Chassis
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Wheels and tires
  • Body
  • Interior
  • Exterior
  • Heating system
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Power devices
  • Windscreen wipers
  • Electrical circuits
BMW E34 (1988-1996) 
  • General information
  • Manual
  • Maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Ignition system
  • Engine lubrication system
  • Cooling system
  • Fuel system (gasoline)
  • Fuel system (diesel)
  • Exhaust system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Chassis
  • Front and rear suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Exterior
  • Interior
  • Electrical equipment
  • Heating system
  • Equipment and devices
  • Power devices
  • Electrical circuits
BMW E28 (1981-1988) 
  • General information
  • Manual
  • Maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Engine in a car
  • Engine overhaul
  • Cooling system
  • Supply system
  • Ignition system
  • Control system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Manual gearbox
  • Automatic gearbox
  • Transmission line
  • Chassis
  • Steering
  • Front suspension
  • Rear suspension
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Body elements
  • Car care and painting
  • Electrical equipment
  • Heater and air conditioner
  • Equipment and devices
  • Starter and generator
  • Electrical circuits
BMW E12 (1972-1981) 
  • General information
  • Operation and maintenance
  • Specifications
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Cooling and lubrication system
  • Supply system
  • Ecotronic power supply system
  • Fuel injection system
  • Ignition system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Gearbox BMW 242/4
  • Gearbox Getrag 262/8
  • Gearbox Getrag 265/6
  • Automatic gearbox
  • Cardan gear
  • Rear axle
  • Chassis
  • Steering
  • Front suspension
  • Rear suspension
  • Brake system
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Electrical circuits
BMWman.ru © 2017-2026 · Mobile version · News and articles · Sitemap: EN BG BY UA RS HR RO PL SK HU · Feedback · Site search
3er E21 · 3er E30 · 3er E36 · 3er E46 [petrol] · 3er E46 · 5er E12 · 5er E28 · 5er E34 · 5er E39 · 7er E32 · 7er E38 · X3 E83 · X5 E53 ·
This site uses cookies 🍪, without them some features simply would not work.