Withdrawal
Remove nut -1- securing propshaft stub to wheel hub.
Attention: The nut is firmly seated. Therefore, for safety reasons, unscrew the nut when the car is on all 4 wheels.
Mark the position of the rear wheels in relation to the hubs with paint. This will allow the balanced wheel to return to its original position. When loosening the wheel bolts, the vehicle must be on its wheels. Raise the car from behind and remove the rear wheels.
Disconnect from main gear cardan shaft, transmitting torque from the power unit.
Remove the rear stabilizer. To do this, unscrew the fixing of the stabilizer to the pressure rods on the left and right. Unfasten the rubber mounts to the rear axle beam and remove them together with the stabilizer.
Unbolt both propshafts at differential -arrows- and tie up propshafts with wire to underbody.
Attention: Cardan shafts must not hang down, because. in this case, the external cardan joints are subjected to increased loads.
Support the final drive over the wood spacer using a garage jack.
Loosen the nut.
Remove after muffler exhaust systems.
Loosen nuts on left and right.
Lower the main gear and disconnect from the propeller shaft flange coming from the power unit.
Press propshaft stub out of wheel hub. This requires a suitable tool, eg KLAIS1IS1 KL-041 or from BMW, see illustration. Screw bracket 332116 to the hub with two wheel bolts and screw the spindle 332111 through the threaded hole in element 332117 until it forces the shank out of the hub.
Remove cardan shaft.
Installation
Attach cardan shafts and hang them on a wire.
Insert the PTO shaft stub into the hub using a tool, eg clamp 332116 and spindle 332119 with threaded bush 332115. To do this, first screw the spindle onto the PTO stub. From the other end, screw a threaded bushing onto the lead screw and wrap it, leaning the bushing on the bracket. In this case, the shank of the cardan shaft is drawn into the hub. Make sure that the splines on the shank and hub are properly positioned before retracting the shank.
Lubricate a new nut with a shoulder for fastening the shank to the hub on the side of the contact surface with a little oil and tighten it without tightening.
Attach final drive and secure with new self-locking nuts.
Mounting torques:
- main gear to the rear axle beam in front (tightening through bolts) - 180 Nm;
- main gear to the rear axle beam at the rear - 105 Nm.
Install after singing muffler.
Set to main gear cardan shaft, coming from the power unit.
Fit the propeller shafts to the differential flanges and tighten with a torque wrench. Before tightening the bolts, do not forget to install the locking plates. The tightening torque is determined by the thread diameter of the bolts and their design.
- Pan head bolts (internal slots) M10 - 85 Nm. M10 cylinder head bolts with locking teeth (bolts and washers are replaced with new ones) - 95 Nm.
Bolts with a cylindrical head M12 - 110 Nm.
Slotted head bolts M10 - 85 Nm:
- with fins for locking M8 - 85 Nm;
- with fins for locking M10 -100 Nm;
- with fins for locking M12 -180 Nm.
Remove the wire for hanging the cardan shafts.
Screw in the stabilizer. Tighten the push rod mounting nuts to 40 Nm.
Tighten the rear wheel bolts. Do not grease wheel bolts. Attach the wheels so that the marks applied before removal coincide. Lower the car.
Collar nuts are easy to lubricate and tighten to 300 Nm.
Crush nuts to prevent their self-loosening. To do this, drive the shoulders with a pin into the grooves on the cardan shaft shanks.
Tighten wheel bolts crosswise to 100 Nm.
Check and top up if necessary oil level in main gear.