Note. There is very little room to work on the removal of the engine oil pan, so it is necessary to lower the front axle beam.
Do not measure the front wheel alignment angles upon completion of work.
Removing the upper part of the oil sump must be carried out in the following order, prepare tools «11.0.000», «00.0.200», «00.0.208», «00.0.201», «00.0.202», «00.0.204», «00.2.030». «31.2.220» And «51.2.170», detach «–» terminal from AB and remove the heater baffle in the engine compartment.
Lock the hood in the installation position using the tool «51.2.170» and remove the soundproof cover (see fig. 4.26).
Remove the bellows from the throttle shaft and the upper part of the air filter housing together with the air flow meter.
Disconnect guide tube (12, see fig. 4.54) oil dipstick (19) from the right timing cover.
Assemble fixture «00.0.200» together with accessories «00.0.201/202/204/208» and install them (pic. 4.55) in the engine compartment of the vehicle.
coasters (1) fixtures «00.0.208» must rest on bolts in both wings of the body. Install fixture «11.0.000» on adaptation «00.0.200», as shown in Figure 4.55. Only in this case, after the separation of the front axle beam, the engine will hang horizontally. Fasten fixture «11.0.000» on the front and rear engine lifting eyes.
Attention! Make sure that neither pipes nor wires will be damaged by the chain.
Loosen the top nuts (9, see fig. 4.146) on the left and right engine mounts and lift the engine using the tool «00.0.200» about 10-12 mm.
Remove the front crankcase protection panel and stiffening plate. unscrew the mount «+» cable from the starter and release it from the clamps.
Remove the left and right pivot bearings, front wheel drive shafts, right output shaft bearing bracket from the oil pan, and front driveshaft.
Disconnect the steering shaft from the steering gear and again, temporarily install the left and right swivel bearings and connect them with one bolt to the suspension strut. Temporarily connect the link, control arm and tie rod to the swivel bearing. Remove the front axle gearbox.
Using fixtures «00.2.030» And «31.2.220», together with a wooden bar (1), support the beam of the front axle, as shown in fig. 4.56.
Detach the front axle beam from the front side member and carefully lower it by 90-100 mm.
Attention! The steering gear remains attached to the front axle beam. When lowering the front axle beam, make sure that the steering gear hoses are not stretched.
Remove the alternator drive belt and remove the power steering pump from the oil sump. Leave the pipes connected. Take the pump aside and secure it to the body with a wire clamp. Loosen the tension of the A/C compressor drive belt and remove the tensioner bar from the oil sump.
Unscrew the oil drain plug and drain the oil from the engine. Send the oil for recycling. Mark the bolts for fastening the lower part of the oil sump, as they have different lengths on the timing and gearbox sides. Loosen the oil pan mounting bolts and remove the lower oil pan section.
Disconnect the dipstick guide tube from the oil sump and the oil drain line (arrow, fig. 4.57), which goes from the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system to the oil pan.
Disconnect the oil drain line that goes from the oil filter to the oil pan and remove the oil pump intake.
Remove bolts (arrows, fig. 4.58) inside the oil sump.
Remove bolts (arrows) and remove the conduit (1, fig. 4.59) «+» AB wires.
Remove bolts (arrows, fig. 4.60) oil sump mountings on the gearbox side.
Unscrew the remaining bolts securing the upper part of the oil sump and remove the upper part of the oil sump towards the rear.
Installation of the oil pan should be carried out in reverse order, while using a hardwood scraper (beech, hornbeam or oak), clean the sealing surfaces from the remnants of the old gasket.
In the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints of the crankshaft rear oil seal and the block, apply a layer of sealant such as «Drei Bond 1209» about 3 mm wide and 2 mm high (pic. 4.61).
Attach the new seal to the pan with a small amount of grease and check that it is in the correct position.
Insert all bolts securing the upper part of the oil sump and screw them in by hand without tightening. Tighten bolts on timing and cylinder block side. Tighten bolts on transmission side. Tighten the mounting bolts to a torque of 10–12 Nm (1.0–1.2 kgf·m), do not overtighten, otherwise the tightness of the gasket is lost.
Replace the O-ring (1, fig. 4.62) oil intake.
Replace the sealing rings of the oil drain lines and tighten their hollow bolts M12x1.5 to a torque of 25 Nm (2.5 kgf·m), bolts M14x1.5 torque 30 Nm (3.0 kgf·m).
When installing the dipstick guide tube, insert a new ring (arrow, fig. 4.63) round section and a washer into the oil sump hole.
Assemble the engine. Fill the engine with oil and check the oil level in the engine and power steering reservoir.
Carry out a test drive and check the tightness of the oil pan. If necessary, slightly tighten the crankcase mounting bolts.
Oil pan replacement (21, see fig. 4.54) engine crankcase must be carried out in the following order.
Unscrew the oil filter cap and allow the oil to drain into the engine sump.
Remove the stiffening plate, unscrew the oil drain plug and drain the oil from the engine. Disconnect plug connector (ShS) from sensor (29) oil level and release the wiring harness from the clamps.
Remove bolts (26, 27, 28) and remove the bottom (21) oil sump.
When installing the pallet, clean the sealing surfaces and replace the sealing gasket (25). Insert all bolts (M8) and tighten them to 22 Nm (2.2 kgf·m), bolts (M6) tighten torque 10–12 Nm (1.0–1.2 kgf·m).