M43TU engine
Withdrawal
1. Rotate the crankshaft to BMT (see paragraph 3) and secure the flywheel.
2. Remove both chain covers as described in paragraph 6.
3. Turn out bolts of fastening of an asterisk of a camshaft and remove a rotor of the gauge of position of a shaft. Note how the rotor was installed.
4. Move the upper end of the tensioner shoe away from the chain to loosen the chain and remove the sprocket from the camshaft (pic. 7.4). Remove the sprocket, then disconnect the chain from the sprocket.
5. Press the bottom end of the tensioner shoe to push in the tensioner plunger. Press the plunger until its groove is against the hole in the tensioner housing. Lock the plunger in this position by inserting a suitable size metal bar or drill into the hole and into the groove of the plunger (pic. 7.5, a, b).
6. Note how the chain is routed in relation to the chain guide and tensioner shoe.
7. Having fixed the tensioner plunger, remove the chain together with the crankshaft sprocket.
8. If necessary, you can also remove the tensioner shoe and chain guide.
Inspection
9. The chain should be replaced if the sprocket teeth or the chain itself are worn. Chain wear is noticeable by a significant play of its links and by noise during engine operation. On a worn chain, the link rollers may have noticeable grooves. If there is even the slightest suspicion of a circuit malfunction, replace it. The chain is recommended to be replaced in any case if the engine is removed and disassembled for overhaul.
10. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear. A normal tooth is V-shaped. When worn, the working side of the tooth is worn out, so that the worn tooth takes the form of a hook. Wear is especially noticeable when comparing the working side of the tooth with the non-working side. Worn sprockets must be replaced. Inspect also the working surfaces of the damper and tensioner shoe. Worn parts should also be replaced.
Installation
11. Make sure the motor is in the installation position (TDC piston No. 1), and that the engine flywheel is locked. Check the position of the camshaft using a template (see paragraph 3).
12. Reinstall tensioner shoe and chain guide (if they were removed).
13. Insert a segment key into the groove of the crankshaft toe (or make sure it's already there).
14. Put the chain on the crankshaft sprocket, then install the sprocket with the chain on the crankshaft. Route the chain in the damper and around the tensioner shoe.
15. Remove the locking rod from the tensioner and allow the tensioner to tension the chain.
16. Press the top end of the tensioner shoe to loosen the chain and allow the sprocket to fit onto the camshaft. Put on the one-piece sprocket so that the pointer arrow is pointing straight up.
17. Put the sprocket on the camshaft, aligning the bolt holes in the shaft flange with the middle of the oblong holes in the sprocket (the camshaft must be in the installation position and secured against rotation with a template - see paragraph 3). Screw in the sprocket mounting bolts and tighten them hand-tight as far as possible.
18. Release the upper end of the tensioner shoe, then tighten the camshaft sprocket mounting bolts to the required torque.
19. Remove crankshaft retainer and camshaft template.
20. Install the chain covers as indicated in paragraph 6.
N42 engine
Withdrawal
21. Turn the crankshaft to TDC (see paragraph 3) and secure the flywheel.
22. Remove the eccentric motor as directed in paragraph 10.
23. Remove the damper pulley and hub from the crankshaft (see paragraph 5). Note. After loosening the bolt, the chain drive sprocket hubs, oil pump and balance shafts will no longer be clamped on the shaft and will be able to rotate independently of it. Therefore, when releasing the hub bolt, fix the crankshaft and camshaft in the installation position as indicated in paragraph 3.
24. Raise the front of the vehicle and place secure supports under it.
25. Attach a sling to the engine's front rigging eye and use a lifting device to lift the engine up to remove its weight from its supports.
26. Remove the front subframe as described in paragraph 15. To do this, it is not necessary to disconnect the steering gear from the subframe - just unscrew the connecting bolt of the flexible connection of the steering column and disconnect the steering gear from the column.
27. Remove the pallet, as indicated in paragraph 13.
28. Fix the camshafts as indicated in paragraph 3, then loosen the bolts of the camshaft adjusters at the ends of the camshafts (pic. 7.28).
29. On the front right side of the cylinder block, unscrew the chain tensioner (pic. 7.29). Get ready for oil to flow from the tensioner. When installing the tensioner, the sealing washer under the plug must be replaced with a new one.
30. Completely turn out a bolt of a regulator of phases of an exhaust shaft and remove a regulator from a shaft together with a shaft position sensor rotor and an asterisk. Do the same for the intake shaft. Keep in mind that the regulators are marked IN (inlet) and EX (high school graduation). Do not confuse them when installing (pic. 7.30).
31. Unscrew the plug on the top right of the front crankshaft cuff and unscrew the lower pin of the chain guide (pic. 7.31).
32. Disconnect the electrical connector of the intake shaft position sensor by squeezing the protrusions of the connector plug.
33. Remove the plug behind the intake shaft position sensor and unscrew the top palei of the chain guide (pic. 7.33).
34. Remove the upper screw of the chain guide from the cylinder head (pic. 7.34).
35. On the front side of the cylinder head, disconnect the electrical connectors of the electromagnets of the valve timing regulators of the intake and exhaust camshafts (pic. 7.35 a). Loosen the screws and remove the electromagnets (pic. 7.35.6). Throw away the sealing stakes - new ones will be required during installation.
36. Remove the plug from the left side of the chain cover and unscrew the upper pin of the left chain guide (pic. 7.36).
37. Remove the chain along with dampers and crankshaft sprocket.
38. Pull the chain down from the dampers and disconnect from the crankshaft sprocket.
39. Press the lower edge of the damper and finally release the chain (pic. 7.39).
Inspection
40. The chain should be replaced if the sprocket teeth or the chain itself are worn out. Chain wear is noticeable by a significant play of its links and by noise during engine operation. On a worn chain, the link rollers may have noticeable grooves. If there is even the slightest suspicion of a circuit malfunction, replace it. The chain is recommended to be replaced in any case if the engine is removed and disassembled for overhaul.
41. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear. A normal tooth is V-shaped. When worn, the working side of the tooth is worn out, so that the worn tooth takes the form of a hook. Wear is especially noticeable when comparing the working side of the tooth with the non-working side. Worn sprockets must be replaced. Inspect also the working surfaces of the damper and tensioner shoe. Worn parts should also be replaced.
Installation
42. Squeeze the lower edge of the damper and drag the chain (see fig. 7.39).
43. Insert the crankshaft sprocket into the lower chain loop. The shoulder of the sprocket must point towards the crankshaft (pic. 7.43).
44. Pull the chain up through the guide until the bottom edge of the guide catches the sprocket. Hold the chain and sprocket in this position.
45. Lower this entire assembly into the chain case and install the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft.
46. Insert the bottom pin of the chain guide through the hole in the chain cover, screw it in and tighten it securely. Screw in the plug with a new sealing ring and tighten it to the required torque.
47. Insert the top pin of the chain guide through the hole in the chain cover, screw it in and tighten it securely. Screw in the plug with a new sealing ring and tighten it to the required torque.
48. Install the pulley hub on the toe of the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt so far only by hand.
49. Working under the car, rotate the balance shafts so that the millings on the ends of the shafts are in the same plane, and the wider slots are on top (pic. 7.49, a). Using two metal strips and a clamp, fix the shafts in this position (fig.7.49,b).
50. Make sure that the crankshaft is still in the installation position, and the flywheel is fixed with the appropriate tool. If so, tighten the pulley hub bolt to 60 Nm (greater torque may damage the locking device or the engine crankcase).
51. Remove all locking devices from the balancing shafts.
52. Establish electromagnets of knots of adjustment of phases of gas distribution of both camshafts. When installing solenoids, replace the O-rings with new ones. Tighten the mounting screws securely and connect the electrical connectors.
53. Install both upper chain guide screws and tighten securely. Screw in the bottom screw plug with O-ring and tighten the plug to the required torque.
54. Connect the intake camshaft position sensor connector.
55. Raise the chain and keep it under tension. Insert the intake camshaft phase adjuster into the chain and put it together with the sensor rotor on the end of the shaft. Secure the assembly with a new bolt. Tighten the bolt enough to eliminate any play, but no more. Repeat the same steps on the exhaust shaft. Keep in mind that although the phase regulators are marked IN and EX, the sensor rotors are the same.
56. Make sure that the chain lies correctly on the surface of the tensioner shoe. Screw special tool 11 9 340 into tensioner hole (pic. 7.56) and turn the fixture adjusting screw until it touches the shoe without tensioning the chain.
57. Install tool 119350 on the cylinder head (pic. 7.57,a). Insert the pins of the tool into the holes in the rotors of the camshaft position sensors (pic. 7.57.6). Screw the fixture to the cylinder head with two M6 bolts included in the fixture kit.
58. Unscrew the bolts securing the phase regulators and rotors to the shafts by half a turn, then wrap them so that their heads only touch the rotors, excluding their play.
59. Slightly tension the chain by tightening the adjusting screw of the tool to a torque of approximately 0.6 Nm. If there is no such torque wrench that could control such a small moment, simply screw in the adjusting screw of the fixture by hand just enough to eliminate chain play.
60. Torque tighten the bolts of both phase regulators.
61. Remove the screws and remove tool 11 9 350 from the cylinder head.
62. Loosen the adjusting screw of tool 11 9 340 and unscrew the tool from the tensioner hole.
63. Remove oil residue from the tensioner plunger, replace the plug sealing ring, insert the tensioner parts into the appropriate hole and tighten the plug to the required torque.
64. Remove the crankshaft and camshaft retainers and rotate the crankshaft two full turns. Check that the crankshaft and camshaft retainers can be inserted back into place. Clearance allowed between exhaust shaft fixtures (1.0 mm) and intake shaft (0.5mm) and the upper plane of the cylinder head under the gasket from the side of the exhaust manifold (pic. 7.64).
65. After checking the gaps, remove the adjusters, tighten the crankshaft hub bolt to the required torque, holding the shaft from turning in the manner that was used earlier when releasing the bolt.
66. The rest of the assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.