Note. When installing, you will need new bolts and a new gasket.
M43TU engine
Withdrawal
1. Depressurize the fuel system as directed in Section 4A. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Drain the coolant as directed in chapter 1.
3. Remove the air cleaner and air flow sensor as directed in paragraph 12 of chapter 4A.
4. Remove the upper and lower sections of the intake manifold as directed in chapter 4A.
5. Disconnect from a final collector a reception pipe of an exhaust system, as it is specified in chapter 4A.
6. Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the top chain cover as directed in paragraph 6 this chapter.
8. Remove the ignition coils as directed in eye 5B.
9. Remove the spark plugs (see chapter 1).
10. Disconnect electric sockets from gauges of temperature of a cooling liquid on the left side of a head of cylinders.
11. Disconnect the hoses and the heater valve on the engine bulkhead.
12. Turn the crankshaft to the TDC position of the piston No. 1 (see paragraph 3) and fix it in this position.
13. Turn out bolts of fastening of an asterisk of a camshaft and remove a rotor of the gauge of position of a shaft.
14. Pull back the top end of the chain tensioner shoe. Loosen the chain enough to allow the sprocket to be removed. Remove the sprocket from the shaft and disconnect it from the chains. Do not let go of the chain so that it does not fall into the engine. Tie the top of the chain to something.
15. Turn out bolts of fastening of a shoe of a natyazhitel and a guide of a chain to a head of cylinders.
Attention! To exclude the possibility of sticking the valves into the pistons when installing the cylinder head, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the crankshaft is when all the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders. Therefore, before continuing with disassembly, remove the retainer from the flywheel and rotate the crankshaft 45°counterclockwise.
16. Check up, whether all hoses and wires are removed from a head of cylinders, and whether something interferes with its removal.
17. Gradually loosen the cylinder head bolts in a spiral sequence.
18. Turn out bolts (pic. 12.18).
19. Shake a head of cylinders and disconnect it from the block. Do not wring the head from the block with any tool - this can ruin their mating surfaces.
20. Ideally, you will need two assistants to remove the head. Let one assistant hold the chain, preventing it from falling through. and with the help of a second assistant, lift the head off the block. Tie the chain with wire somewhere on top.
21. Remove the head gasket and rubber seals from the upper ends of the chain case and lower chain cover.
Inspection
22. Disassembly and assembly of the cylinder head is described in detail in chapter 2B.
23. The mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned. Clean off carbon deposits and the remains of the old gasket with a scraper. Also clean the piston bottoms. Use the scraper carefully - aluminum parts are easy to scratch. Make sure that dirt does not get into the oil and water channels of the engine. Seal the channels with tape. To prevent scraped deposits from getting into the gaps between the pistons and cylinders, coat these gaps with grease. After cleaning each piston, turn the crankshaft so that the piston goes down, and wipe the grease, along with the residue of carbon deposits, from the surfaces of the cylinders with a clean rag.
24. Examine mating surfaces of a head and the block on presence of nicks, deep scratches and other damages. Small defects can be eliminated with a small file. More serious damage can sometimes be repaired by machining, but this is a job for a specialist.
25. If warping of the head is suspected, place the edge of a steel ruler on the surface of the head and check with a flat feeler for a gap between the head and the ruler (see chapter 2B).
26. Clean the bolt holes in the block by wrapping a rag around the screwdriver. Remove moisture and oil from the holes, otherwise, when tightening the bolts with them, hydraulic pressure may arise that can break the block.
27. Check the condition of the threads in the holes. Drive the thread with a tap of the correct size.
Installation
28. Verify that the mating surfaces of the head and block are sterile, that no liquid or oil remains in the bolt holes, that the threads of the holes in the block are not damaged, and that the bolts in them can be easily screwed in and out.
29. Verify that all dowel pins and adapter tubes are in place on the block.
Attention! To exclude the possibility of sticking valves into the pistons when installing the cylinder head, it is necessary to ensure that the crankshaft is in such a position that all the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders. That's why. Before proceeding, rotate the crankshaft to TDC on the No. 1 piston, then rotate the crankshaft 45°counterclockwise.
30. Lay a new gasket on the surface of the block with the right side up. Keep in mind that. if the surface of the head has been ground, then for such cases a repair size gasket is produced, 0.3 mm thicker than the standard one.
31. Lay a new seal on the top end of the chain housing. Do not install a new seal on the lower chain cover yet.
32. Install a control template on the camshaft to make sure that the shaft is in the TDC position of the piston No. 1.
33. Put the head on the block. Retract the chain tensioner shoe as needed so that it does not interfere with lowering the head. Make sure all pins are in their holes.
34. Insert new head bolts. Screw the bolts as far as possible by hand.
35. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in fig. 12.35 as regulated by the Technical Data, i.e. tighten all bolts to the 1st stage torque, then tighten them to the required angle in the same sequence, etc.
36. Screw the bolts of the tensioner shoe and the chain guide into the head.
37. Rotate the crankshaft 45°clockwise so. until it is back at TDC No. 1. Lock the engine shafts in this position by inserting a detent into the flywheel and setting the camshaft position tester (see paragraph 3).
38. Pull back the chain tensioner shoe so that the camshaft sprocket can be installed. Insert the sprocket into the chain with the arrow on the sprocket facing up.
39. Install the sprocket on the camshaft, aligning the holes in the shaft flange with the middle of the elongated holes of the sprocket (the camshaft must be fixed with a template). Install the shaft position sensor rotor onto the sprocket with the arrow on it pointing up. Screw in the sprocket mounting bolts and tighten them by hand.
40. Release the tensioner shoe, then tighten the sprocket bolts to the required torque.
41. Remove the retainer from the flywheel and remove the template from the camshaft.
42. The rest of the installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following remarks.
- A) Route and connect all hoses and wires in the same way. as it was before disassembly.
- b) Install both sections of the intake manifold. as outlined in chapter 4A.
- V) Install the air cleaner and air flow sensor as indicated in chapter 4A.
- G) Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
- d) Screw in the spark plugs as directed in chapter 7.
- e) Install the top chain cover as described in paragraph 6.
- and) Finally, fill the cooling system (see chapter 1) and fuel system (see chapter 4A).
N42 engine
Withdrawal
43. Drain the coolant as directed in chapter 1.
44. Set the engine to the TDC position of the piston No. 1, as indicated in paragraph 3.
45. Fix the camshafts as indicated in paragraph 3, loosen the bolts securing the camshaft phase adjusters (see fig. 11.28).
46. On the front right side of the cylinder block, unscrew the tensioner plunger assembly (see fig. 11.29). Get ready for oil to flow from the hole. The sealing washer can be discarded - a new one is required for assembly. If the assembly is to be used further, place it vertically, press on the plunger and squeeze out the remaining oil from the assembly.
47. Finally unscrew the bolt of the exhaust camshaft phase regulator and remove the regulator together with the shaft position sensor rotor and sprocket (see fig. 11.30). Do the same for the intake shaft. Regulators are marked IN (inlet) and EX (high school graduation). Do not mix them up when assembling. Keep the chain taut - do not let it fall into the engine. Tie it with a piece of wire somewhere on top.
48. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds (see chapter 4).
49. Remove the eccentric shaft motor as directed in paragraph 10.
50. At the chain cover, disconnect the electrical connector for the intake camshaft position sensor. To do this, squeeze the protrusions of the connector plug.
51. Remove the plug behind the intake shaft position sensor and unscrew the chain guide pin (see fig. 7.33). Be careful not to drop your finger into the engine.
52. Remove the chain guide bolt, carefully pry the upper end of the left guide and release the lower end of the upper guide. Remove the upper damper from the engine (see fig. 11.34, a, b),
53. On the front side of the engine, disconnect the electrical connectors of the solenoid valves, unscrew the screws securing the brackets and remove the solenoid valves from the engine (pic. 12.53).
54. Remove the plug from the left side of the chain cover (behind the lifting eye) and unscrew the upper pin of the left chain guide (see fig. 7.36).
55. Remove the fixing templates from the camshafts.
56. Separate all electric sockets on a head of cylinders and remove wires. Note the wiring and connector positions.
57. Turn the eccentric shaft by the hexagon on it so that its gear sector turns towards the intake shaft (pic. 12.57). This position allows access to the bolts on the intake side of the cylinder head.
58. Remove the two bolts in the chain tunnel that secure the head to the cylinder block (pic. 12.58).
59. Remove the plug from the eccentric shaft control motor support bracket.
60. In the reverse order to that shown in fig. 12.74. gradually and evenly loosen and remove the cylinder head bolts. Bolts 7 to 10 have an M8 thread and an E10 head, and bolts 1 to 6 have an M10 thread and an E12 head. Keep in mind that the bolt in position 10 is shorter than the others.
61. Separate the head from the block by rocking it from side to side. Do not wring the head from the block with any tool - this can easily ruin the mating surfaces.
62. Ideally, you will need two assistants to remove the head. Let one assistant hold the chain, preventing it from falling through, and with the help of the second assistant, lift the head from the block. Tie the chain with wire somewhere on top.
63. Remove the gasket from under the head.
Inspection
64. The mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned. Clean off carbon deposits and the remains of the old gasket with a scraper. Also clean the piston bottoms. Use the scraper carefully - aluminum parts are easily scratched. Follow that. so that dirt does not get into the oil and water channels of the engine. Seal the channels with tape. To prevent scraped deposits from getting into the gaps between the pistons and cylinders, coat these gaps with grease. After cleaning each piston, turn the crankshaft so that the piston goes down, and wipe the grease, along with the residue of carbon deposits, from the surfaces of the cylinders with a clean rag.
65. Inspect the mating surfaces of the head and block for nicks, deep scratches, and other damage. Small defects can be eliminated with a small file. More serious damage can sometimes be repaired by machining, but this is a job for a specialist.
66. If warping of the head is suspected, place the edge of a steel ruler on the surface of the head and check with a flat feeler for a gap between the head and the ruler (see chapter 2B).
67. Clean the bolt holes in the block by wrapping a rag around the screwdriver. Remove moisture and oil from the holes, otherwise, when the bolts are tightened, hydraulic pressure can be created under them, which can break the block.
68. Check the condition of the threads in the holes. Drive the thread with a tap of the correct size.
69. On the front side of the cylinder block, there are shut-off valves for supplying lubricant to the intake and exhaust camshafts with rubber seals. If the valves are heavily soiled or deposited, remove the seals and valves and replace them with new ones. When properly installed, the ends of the rubber seals should protrude slightly above the mating surface of the block with the head (pic. 12.69, a, b).
Installation
70. Verify that the mating surfaces of the head and block are sterile, that no liquid or oil remains in the bolt holes, that the threads of the holes in the block are not damaged, and that the bolts in them can be easily screwed in and out.
71. Verify that all dowel pins and adapter tubes are in place on the block.
Attention! To exclude the possibility of sticking the valves into the pistons when installing the cylinder head, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the crankshaft is when all the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders. That's why. Before proceeding, rotate the crankshaft to TDC on the No. 1 piston, then rotate the crankshaft 45°counterclockwise.
72. Place a new gasket on the surface of the block with the right side up (pic. 12.72). Keep in mind that if the head surface has been ground, then a repair size gasket is available for such cases, 0.3 mm thicker than the standard one.
73. Put the head on the block.
74. Lubricate the threads, heads and washers of the head bolts with engine oil. Insert the bolts into the holes. Keep in mind that bolts 7 to 10 (pic. 12.74) have an M8 thread and an E1 O head, and bolts 1 to 6 have an M10 thread and an E12 head. Keep in mind that the bolt in position 10 is shorter than the others. Tighten the bolts in the specified sequence as specified in the Technical Data, i.e. tighten all the bolts to the 1st stage torque, then tighten them to the required angle in the same sequence, etc. Bolts M8 and M10 are tightened to the same torque.
75. Screw the two mounting bolts into the chain tunnel and tighten them securely.
76. Screw and securely tighten the plug with a new O-ring into the eccentric shaft motor bracket.
77. Align the left chain guide and insert the top pin into it. Tighten the pin securely and screw in the plug with a new O-ring.
78. Turn the eccentric shaft by the hexagon on it so that the spring at its end is under the greatest tension.
79. Install templates on camshafts (see paragraph 3).
80. Return the crankshaft to the TDC position and insert the retainer into the flywheel.
81. Reinstall the electromagnets of the camshaft phase regulators, replacing them with new o-rings. Install the solenoids brackets and securely tighten the solenoid mounting screws. Connect electrical connectors.
82. Raise the chain up and install the upper chain guide. Gently depress the top end of the left guide and push the top guide into the mounting holes (pic. 12.82).
83. Screw in the upper bolt of the upper damper and tighten it only by hand so far.
84. Screw in the lower bolt of the upper damper and finally tighten both bolts - the lower and the upper - to the required torque.
85. Finally install the sprockets, chain and camshaft adjusters as indicated in paragraph 7.
86. The rest of the installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.